Agenda Magazine

Day 1

The journey begins with a non-stop 12-hour flight from Amsterdam to Kuala Lumpur. A crew member offers the first introduction to Malaysian culture: "Malaysia is a peaceful mix of over 130 ethnic groups - look, for example, at our crew!" He goes on introducing Indian, Chinese, Malays and the Rungus from Borneo - people whose names easily identify them with their ethnic group. Malaysians open their door to everybody during religious celebrations: "We celebrate major holidays, such as Christmas, Diwali and Chinese New Year; even today (November 27th) Malay is celebrating the Muslim holiday Eid al-Adha ("Festival of Sacrifice")" that commemorates the willingness of Abraham (Ibrahim) to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God, who instead ordered Abraham to sacrifice a ram. This is time with family and friends, and giving thanks for being able to afford food and housing. We buy an animal and share it between family, friends and the poor…" my interlocutor continues to explain in the dim light of the plane, while most passengers sleep or chat peacefully.

There is not much to do at 8am in K.L. - the name the natives call this important mondial centre. Shops open at 9, so very few people are on the street, even the legendarily bad traffic is noticeable absent. From the hotel's small swimming pool, I can see the Petronas Twin Towers - perfect in their architecture of Islamic art inspiration, with a blend of polished steel that catches the sun in uncountable angles - and the revolving restaurant topping KLCC's Kuala Lumpur Tower, the world's fifth tallest and an important broadcast centre.

After a brunch, including Malay, Japanese and Indian food, we brave the 30º C heat and energy-sapping humidity to visit the colourful boutique of Tom Abang Saufi, a lady recognised as one of the top six designers in Malaysia, who specialises in bringing modern trends to the Muslim national heritage.

A quick tour of Independence Square reminds us of the past British and Dutch colonial rule, with the 123 year-old British Club still going strong, and a step further brings us face-to-face with one of the tallest flagpoles in the world, measuring an impressive 95m. In Chinatown on Petaling Street, sellers shout and call as we shelter from the rain between a fruit stall and a fake brands seller.

We dwindle through the busy Central Market and its various handicrafts to Sze Ya Temple, the oldest Taoist temple in K.L. that is also famous for its charity work in education and medicine. As the evening advances, the city becomes busier: foreign workers enjoy their free day and families come out to the cinema and for dinner, bringing back the insanely busy traffic. The view from KLCC's revolving tower, where we dine, is simply astonishing, but as is the variety of foods that range from fresh seafood to Chinese and Malay-cooked dishes. The cook offers to facilitate my life by splitting a few crabs for me and, amazingly enough, he manages to find me in the crowd to hand me the plate; the extra length people go to see you happy is one of the most touching aspects that I experience countless times in Malaysia - their keen sense of observation and sense of service is impressive. Among the deserts is the durian, known as the king of the fruits, as well as for its sweet taste and for its notorious smell, which is so infamous that hotels and airports post signs stating that no durians are allowed.

A final stop at the Petronas Twin Towers is even an attraction that Malaysians themselves come to enjoy and photograph. The discotheque next door from the hotel is loud and crowded, and it seems that the night life is good, but jet-lag pushes us to our beds.